We started early from Williams towards the Grand Canyon. On the way we stopped at the visitor center of the world famous National Geographic magazine. There, we watched a movie on the history and geography of the canyon in a 3-D Imax theater. The movie showed a birds-eye view of the canyon. We purchased an Entry-Pass for the National Park. This pass is for one car irrespective of how many people are in it. It is valid for a year and you can use it in any National Park in the US.
Millions of years ago, a shallow sea covered parts of Utah, Arizona, and Colorado. Erosion of surrounding land deposited multiple layers of soil at the bottom of this sea. Due to upheaval, this bottom was lifted up and became the Colorado Plateau. Rivers, mountains, and meadows were formed on this plateau. One of the rivers is the Colorado River. The river eroded the layers of the deposited sediment and formed the canyon. The presence of a variety of minerals explains the vivid hues that lend the Canyon its multicolored layers. This is not the deepest canyon in the world. That honor goes to the Kali Gandaki Gorge of Nepal in the Himalayas. However, the Grand Canyon is the largest, overwhelming, and most colored of all canyons in the world. It is 450 km long, 30 km wide and 1800 meters deep. The south side of the canyon is 2000 meters above the sea level. The uplift of the Colorado Plateau is uneven, and the Kaibab Plateau that Grand Canyon bisects is over a thousand feet (or 300 m) higher at the North Rim than at the South Rim. The lowest layer in these sedimentary layers is called ‘Vishnu Rock’, which was formed about two lakh years ago when the lava from a volcano surfaced and cooled down. It was named by Dutton, a geologist of world repute. He has also named a tall rock as ‘Temple Rock’ owing to its structural resemblance to the crown (kalash) of a temple. This is a truly amazing fact!
There are many areas in America that are still occupied by the Native Americans. One of the oldest of these people are called the Pueblo. They still live in the Grand Canyon. They are also called the Anasazi. Anasazi means ‘the ancient ones’. This word comes from the Navajo language where ‘jo’ is pronounced as ‘ho’. There are several other tribes that live here. The area on the west side of the canyon was settled by the Cohonia. Out of these, the Yuma, Havasupai, and Walapai people still live here.
According to the records, the first European who discovered this marvel of nature, the Grand Canyon, was Garcia Lopez de Cardenas in 1540. However, it was really brought to light in 1826 by James Ohio Pattie. After that many people travelled this area by land and by the river. Travelogues penned by them are available for reference. The most famous was John Powell. John Powell set off on a voyage with four boats manned by a crew of nine. The geologist Clarence Dutton was also on this team. With provisions for ten months, they set sail on the Green river (Wyoming state) on 24th May. The Green river meets the Colorado river in the town of Moab. From there, they travelled down the Colorado. It was an extremely treacherous journey. The story of this is shown in the film at the visitor center. It was Powell who named it ‘the Grand Canyon’. In 1903, President Roosevelt visited the canyon. It was designated as a National Monument in 1908 and was then made into a National Park by President Woodrow Wilson in 1919.
We parked our van at Mather campground. In Grand Canyon, it is not possible to view tourist spots by your car. One has to take an environmentally friendly low emission bus to visit the different viewpoints on the rim of the canyon. There is no ticket for this bus. The buses run every 7 to 8 minutes and are very convenient. The buses that go to the west side, the east side, and the campgrounds are color-coded. The visitor center provides you with maps and pamphlets and all of the information needed to visit and experience the park. These maps and pamphlets are so accurate that it is very hard to get lost in the park.
Walking trails also connect all of the viewpoints. The distance between each viewpoint is given in the map. One can stroll down the footpaths, clicking photographs at a leisurely pace or hop on to a bus in case one is tired. We initiated our tour by hopping on to a bus headed West – colored Red. The last viewpoint on this route is 40 km away. After visiting the Trail Viewpoint and Powell point by bus we walked to the Hopi point. After that we visited Mohave point, Pima point, and in the end the last point called the Hermit’s Rest. From all these viewpoints we saw the canyon in many different angles in changing light conditions and a multitude of colors. The Colorado river in azure blue was flowing deep in the canyon, the slopes tinted fiery red, fresh green, golden yellow, topped by milky white, the mesmerizing view defies words to describe this view.
Hermits Rest
View from Hermits Rest
There is a small restaurant at Hermit’s Rest Point. Architect – Mary Colter built it here in 1914. We had a steaming hot cup of coffee there. The interiors reflect a Native American style of decor. Having refreshed ourselves thus we headed to Bright Angel Trailhead to watch the sun dipping down the flaming orange horizon – a visual treat indeed! The east side of the canyon was soaked in hues of red color that became even brighter.
Petrified Wood
Petrified Wood
We also saw petrified wood at this location. In Greek language ‘petro’ means ‘rock’, so these are ancient woods that are converted into rocks. Such transformation takes place when minerals seep into the root system of the plant, gradually converting it to stone. Mary Colter has built a Hopi House in this location. She has built a total of five shelters as per Hopi design in the Grand Canyon.
We spent the night at Mather campground. There was a bed in the campervan for us to sleep. Some other campers had brought tents with them or they were living in large RVs. The campgrounds in this country can be very large. The campsites are neatly arranged and numbered. Close by are located toilets and facilities for showers, dish washing, etc. for public use. There is a battery charging station, hosepipes for filling water and drainage facility for big RV’s.
We could not sleep well in the campervan. Since this is a high altitude desert, the days were hot but the nights were very cold. We had just one blanket each provided by the rental van company that was not enough.
Despite the lack of sleep we got up at six in the morning to see the sunrise. As we were on the way to eastbound US Highway 89 and the sunrise point lay on our route, we didn’t have to go out of our way. After having seen a colorful sunset on the west facing walls of the canyon on the previous night, in the morning we saw the east facing walls of canyon light up in a dazzling golden light.
There is only one viewpoint on the east, the Desert View Watchtower, also designed by Mary Colter. This was built in 1932 and it is 70ft tall. This is the highest viewpoint on the south rim of the canyon. The construction is typical of the Anasazi style. The building itself and the paintings on the interior walls are beautiful. These are painted by Fred Kabotie. One can see a section of the Painted Desert from this tower.
Desert view watchtower
Desert view watchtower
Paintings inside the tower
Desert view watchtower
We also saw a Mountain Goat here. It was bluish in color and slightly larger than the usual goats. There are many types of deer, squirrels and other animals and birds in the Grand Canyon. Some of these you will see on your visit there. They offer plenty of photo opportunities.
Many activities are popular in the canyon such as trekking, river rafting, marathon, etc. One of them is the 126 km ‘Ultra Marathon” to be done in 24 hours. There are many trails that will take you down into the valley. There are campgrounds on the valley floor too. The most popular of these trails is the Bright Angel Trail. You have to carry everything you need on these trails down and then back up. You are not allowed to leave behind absolutely any kind of garbage. You have to carry all of your garbage back with you. All relevant information and guidance to make your trail activities an enjoyable and memorable one, is available at the Visitor’s Center.
There are ranger programs for bird watching, Elk trail and Fossil discovery. Children as well as adults get to learn in these programs. You can also see the Grand Canyon from a helicopter. They show the southern, northern, and western part of the canyon on these rides. Of course it is very expensive.
After seeing the Desert View Watchtower we headed north on the US highway 89. US 89 is a scenic drive. Very soon we left the state of Arizona and entered Utah. Utah state is famous for having many national parks. There are five of them – Zion, Bryce, Capitol Reef, Arches, and Canyonlands. Besides, it has 43 state parks and 7 national monuments.
Large portion of Utah is desert. We caught the mesmerizing view of the Painted Desert, Marble Canyon, and Vermillion Cliff National Monument on our way. Painted desert, as the name suggests, consists of hills of various different colors. It’s as if the creator took a brush and painted them with various colors on a canvas. The top of a hill is white while the lower part is red or the top is yellow and lower is gray, the top is light red and the bottom is dark red or green. I have never seen such colorful landscapes. Just a glimpse left me spellbound. There were many viewpoints on this road. At some of these we stopped to take pictures. All viewpoints have parking, toilets, and drinking water even though there was no one living anywhere in sight. The facilities were clean and well maintained. Will it be too difficult to have these kinds of facilities in India? Other than the facilities, the viewpoints also had information in text and pictures of the history and geography of the region. There is no need of a tourist guide anywhere.